THE
WARP STORM

Hi, I've used Biostrip in the past and been really really pleased with the results. I have had a read some places oline that it's the exact came stuff as Wilkos cheap paint stripper.

I have bought a bottle of this and will test next week and report back. this still is only £4 for 500ml so about 1/5 the price of biostrip.

Wish me luck.

This would be my go-to, but do let us know how you get on!
Do you have a link to the stuff by any chance? Would be interested to see what's in it.

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-all-p ... /p/0299049

I've not asked for the MSDS so I don't know what it contains but the reviews made it sound like Biostrip.

Ive used IPA but I'm not all that keen for stripping, it takes a little too much manual labour for me lol.

the GSW stuff is 100% 2-butoxythanol according to the MSDS. I've yet to try the GSW one but heard great things and the alcohol is much cheaper to buy when sold as itself.

Hope that helps in some way.

I'd certainly second isopropyl alcohol and its quite reasonable atm!

laam999 wrote: ↑30 Jan 22, 10:42 https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-all-p ... /p/0299049

I've not asked for the MSDS so I don't know what it contains but the reviews made it sound like Biostrip.

Ive used IPA but I'm not all that keen for stripping, it takes a little too much manual labour for me lol.

the GSW stuff is 100% 2-butoxythanol according to the MSDS. I've yet to try the GSW one but heard great things and the alcohol is much cheaper to buy when sold as itself.

Hope that helps in some way.

Recently discovered what an MSDS is while doing some digging on Tamiya plastic cements, and I'm now infuriated that they're not easier to get hold of because I don't dare ask for them They're what I've been looking for for ages because I'm an inquisitive bugger!

The key to iso is time - the longer you can leave your models soaking the easier the work is. Fifteen minutes (or even less, I've stripped by just loading a toothbrush and scrubbing!) is enough to get to work, but if you can leave them for a couple of days or longer then you'll have a much easier time of things. Or if you forget about them for a year they basically strip themselves

pawl wrote: ↑02 Feb 22, 09:41

laam999 wrote: ↑30 Jan 22, 10:42 https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-all-p ... /p/0299049

I've not asked for the MSDS so I don't know what it contains but the reviews made it sound like Biostrip.

Ive used IPA but I'm not all that keen for stripping, it takes a little too much manual labour for me lol.

the GSW stuff is 100% 2-butoxythanol according to the MSDS. I've yet to try the GSW one but heard great things and the alcohol is much cheaper to buy when sold as itself.

Hope that helps in some way.

Recently discovered what an MSDS is while doing some digging on Tamiya plastic cements, and I'm now infuriated that they're not easier to get hold of because I don't dare ask for them They're what I've been looking for for ages because I'm an inquisitive bugger!

The key to iso is time - the longer you can leave your models soaking the easier the work is. Fifteen minutes (or even less, I've stripped by just loading a toothbrush and scrubbing!) is enough to get to work, but if you can leave them for a couple of days or longer then you'll have a much easier time of things. Or if you forget about them for a year they basically strip themselves

Always ask for the MSDS if you want one, I'm pretty sure they're not allowed to not give you one.

I work in a lab so I'm happy reading them, for commercial products it's usually just to find out what the active component is (like the GSW paint stripper) so I can save myself money and buy it.

I've tried IPA but for me i just never found it all that good, maybe the older models I was stripping where too heavily coated. I know for a targeted area with a cotton bud it would be great. I' finish my night shift in the morning and I'' be reorganizing the hobby room over the next few weeks so I'll update when I've actual performed a test on this stuff but I'm feeling optimistic.

I'm also going to test it in the sonic bath at work to see if that improves paint removal, I have a feeling its going to help a lot with the more viscous paint strippers like the wilkos and biostrip ones.

laam999 wrote: ↑02 Feb 22, 20:05 Always ask for the MSDS if you want one, I'm pretty sure they're not allowed to not give you one.

I work in a lab so I'm happy reading them, for commercial products it's usually just to find out what the active component is (like the GSW paint stripper) so I can save myself money and buy it.

I've tried IPA but for me i just never found it all that good, maybe the older models I was stripping where too heavily coated. I know for a targeted area with a cotton bud it would be great. I' finish my night shift in the morning and I'' be reorganizing the hobby room over the next few weeks so I'll update when I've actual performed a test on this stuff but I'm feeling optimistic.

I'm also going to test it in the sonic bath at work to see if that improves paint removal, I have a feeling its going to help a lot with the more viscous paint strippers like the wilkos and biostrip ones.

Do you not need a legitimate reason for asking? Paint strippers in particular were one of the reasons I could have done with them in the past, for the exact same reasons as yourself (plus general curiosity!)

Again, time is your friend. That or repeated exposure - damage the top layer, resoak and repeat.

Be careful with a sonic bath - I've heard (third hand, admittedly) horror stories about them emitting sparks that could ignite anything flammable. Given the fact that most stripping agents are either alcohol or solvent based it could be a recipe for disaster!

I would love to do a deep-dive topic on the various hobby-branded paint strippers, but that's for when I have more money to throw around I think!

I'm trying to sell my sonic bath. Useless!!!
Although that's just for airbrush part cleaning.

pawl wrote: ↑02 Feb 22, 21:06

laam999 wrote: ↑02 Feb 22, 20:05 Always ask for the MSDS if you want one, I'm pretty sure they're not allowed to not give you one.

I work in a lab so I'm happy reading them, for commercial products it's usually just to find out what the active component is (like the GSW paint stripper) so I can save myself money and buy it.

I've tried IPA but for me i just never found it all that good, maybe the older models I was stripping where too heavily coated. I know for a targeted area with a cotton bud it would be great. I' finish my night shift in the morning and I'' be reorganizing the hobby room over the next few weeks so I'll update when I've actual performed a test on this stuff but I'm feeling optimistic.

I'm also going to test it in the sonic bath at work to see if that improves paint removal, I have a feeling its going to help a lot with the more viscous paint strippers like the wilkos and biostrip ones.

Do you not need a legitimate reason for asking? Paint strippers in particular were one of the reasons I could have done with them in the past, for the exact same reasons as yourself (plus general curiosity!)

Again, time is your friend. That or repeated exposure - damage the top layer, resoak and repeat.

Be careful with a sonic bath - I've heard (third hand, admittedly) horror stories about them emitting sparks that could ignite anything flammable. Given the fact that most stripping agents are either alcohol or solvent based it could be a recipe for disaster!

I would love to do a deep-dive topic on the various hobby-branded paint strippers, but that's for when I have more money to throw around I think!

I don't think you need a legit reason to ask, I emailed GW to ask for the MSDS for their base paints (to settle and argument with my GF who seems to think they'll use heavy metals as a pigment) and they sent me the MSDS for each item that comes in a pot (washes, paints, technical paints, texture paste, mediums etc). I would be shocked and worried if any company refused to let you see the MSDS for a chemical product they sold.

Yeah ultrasonic baths can get pretty hot, but I'll just be using the ones at work so I'm not worried about my house burning down lol. Most the horror stories are worse case stuff or if someone misuses them by filling the bath with something like IPA instead of water and then a container within the water with the IPA.

@James I was going to buy myself one but decided it's much easier for my to just use the huge ones I work with on the few occasions I need one. (I did both my airbrushes and had ok results, prob needed to use a stronger solvent but the rubbers in the airbrush wouldn't have been able to handle it.

laam999 wrote: ↑03 Feb 22, 01:18 I don't think you need a legit reason to ask, I emailed GW to ask for the MSDS for their base paints (to settle and argument with my GF who seems to think they'll use heavy metals as a pigment) and they sent me the MSDS for each item that comes in a pot (washes, paints, technical paints, texture paste, mediums etc). I would be shocked and worried if any company refused to let you see the MSDS for a chemical product they sold.

Yeah ultrasonic baths can get pretty hot, but I'll just be using the ones at work so I'm not worried about my house burning down lol. Most the horror stories are worse case stuff or if someone misuses them by filling the bath with something like IPA instead of water and then a container within the water with the IPA.

@James I was going to buy myself one but decided it's much easier for my to just use the huge ones I work with on the few occasions I need one. (I did both my airbrushes and had ok results, prob needed to use a stronger solvent but the rubbers in the airbrush wouldn't have been able to handle it.

Well that opens up a whole new range of possibilities - thanks for the information, appreciate it! (also, I can only presume that GW didn't include specific pigments in there!)

In that case go nuts! I've heard enough mixed reviews about ultrasonic cleaners that I've never really considered buying one, but it can't hurt to try. If your workplace also happens to have a sand blaster I once came across a company that offered to strip models by using one of those, if you fancy giving it a go!