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Full Member
 03 Jul 20, 18:39
Hahah, ok, I'll be happy to oblige.

In fact, if you guys aren't fed up with my spam, I could actually use some betatesters...I always have the videos ready at least 24h before I publish them. :innocent:

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Site Admin
 03 Jul 20, 18:47
Hope you don't mind @Lovecraft0110 but I felt this deserved its own topic!

Anyway, here's the reply I've been sat on since I saw this over there:


I like it! You've solved something I've really been struggling with! 😁

It looks like this stuff is fantastic, not sure how I haven't heard of it already! It looks like you could get through it quite quickly (especially with larger models) but you can't argue with the results!

I have many questions though, obviously!
Most importantly, how dangerous is this stuff? Are gloves and/or a mask recommended, or REALLY needed?
Will extended exposure cause damage? Could you leave pieces soaking in this stuff without causing them to soften/warp etc?
I'm assuming that if it's safe for resin it's safe for plastic and metal?
Does it have any effect on super glue? ("yes" is the answer I'm hoping for!)
Is it reusable? It would be nice to store between uses and use it more than once, like I do with ISO/acetone. Perhaps use 'dirty' stripper to remove most of the paint, then 'clean' stripper and brush for a final pass?
Based on your choice of primer it looks like this stuff will work for oils and lacquers, but also acrylics?
Lastly, do you know what makes it so good?! Being able to bulk-buy the active ingredient (if there is only one) would of course be nice!
(it's a lot of questions, I know, and I'm sorry!)


Regarding the video, I had forgotten how short you said it was going to be - you really did cut this one down! πŸ˜‚
I think it would have been nice if you had perhaps mentioned some of the above (safety aspects in particular), but also given us more information about buying the stripper too - what volumes is it sold in, at what approximate prices? Maybe a link in the description for store/s you use? We know that it works (good), but next to nothing about it (not so good).
Aside from that though I think it's come out nicely - video/camera quality is as good as always, and you clearly demonstrated that this stuff is a must-have for resin!


When I can write it up I'm going to amend my stripping guide to link to your video. Would you mind later down the line (once I've tried some out myself) if I wrote my own section to go with the guide? I would of course give credit where it's due!
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Full Member
 03 Jul 20, 18:50
Haha wow. Don't think I need to add anything to the above. Great vid and great advices from @pawl. He's already got some great how to guides on iso and acetone 😊 great to see a complete collection now.
I quite liked the shorty and snappy style with this one @Lovecraft0110 . I don't think many people would be looking for a long vid on this sort of guide so I think it's about right 😊 good job! Unless you want to get a mention in for lork the dreadnought somehow πŸ˜‚
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 04 Jul 20, 07:12
pawl wrote: ↑03 Jul 20, 18:47 Hope you don't mind @Lovecraft0110 but I felt this deserved its own topic! Obviously you can edit the title and stuff.
(and you're always more than welcome to post others, we won't complain that there's too many! At least one other you've posted at b&c recently!)

Anyway, here's the reply I've been sat on since I saw this over there:


I like it! You've solved something I've really been struggling with! 😁

It looks like this stuff is fantastic, not sure how I haven't heard of it already! It looks like you could get through it quite quickly (especially with larger models) but you can't argue with the results!

I have many questions though, obviously!
Most importantly, how dangerous is this stuff? Are gloves and/or a mask recommended, or REALLY needed?
Will extended exposure cause damage? Could you leave pieces soaking in this stuff without causing them to soften/warp etc?
I'm assuming that if it's safe for resin it's safe for plastic and metal?
Does it have any effect on super glue? ("yes" is the answer I'm hoping for!)
Is it reusable? It would be nice to store between uses and use it more than once, like I do with ISO/acetone. Perhaps use 'dirty' stripper to remove most of the paint, then 'clean' stripper and brush for a final pass?
Based on your choice of primer it looks like this stuff will work for oils and lacquers, but also acrylics?
Lastly, do you know what makes it so good?! Being able to bulk-buy the active ingredient (if there is only one) would of course be nice!
(it's a lot of questions, I know, and I'm sorry!)


Regarding the video, I had forgotten how short you said it was going to be - you really did cut this one down! πŸ˜‚
I think it would have been nice if you had perhaps mentioned some of the above (safety aspects in particular), but also given us more information about buying the stripper too - what volumes is it sold in, at what approximate prices? Maybe a link in the description for store/s you use? We know that it works (good), but next to nothing about it (not so good).
Aside from that though I think it's come out nicely - video/camera quality is as good as always, and you clearly demonstrated that this stuff is a must-have for resin!


When I can write it up I'm going to amend my stripping guide to link to your video. Would you mind later down the line (once I've tried some out myself) if I wrote my own section to go with the guide? I would of course give credit where it's due!
OMG! Wow, that was a comprehensive post if there ever was one!

Ok, let's see, I'll try to break it down:

1. No, of course I don't mind!

2. The stuff IS dangerous. I wasn't sure whether or not to say something in the video, because I don't want to sound patronising or stating the obvious. I could add it to the description and the comments, though. I would never use this without a respirator and gloves. LOTS of gloves! It literally ate through four pairs of professional grade nitril gloves in the time it took me to do the Typhon. I kid you not - four pairs.

3. I have never left anything soaking...because it won't need to soak! I'm pretty sure you could dissolve even car paint with this (wouldn't suggest trying on your car, though).

4. Yes, most parts with super glue just break apart. Even if they are reinforced with green stuff, which I always do on all big tanks like the Typhon (super glue + green stuff=way better adhesion!).

5. I think it could be re-used, but I never did. I spent three and a half bottles on the Typhon. If I had used like a coffee filter or something...yes, I think that could work. Never tried, though.

6. It works on anything, of course acrylics as well. Acrylics are like watery, weak stuff. The fact it cuts through lacquers like Tamiya's means it will cut through any paint, period. Lacquers are like three orders of magnitude tougher than puny acrylics! :grinning:

7. I have no idea what the chemical composition is. I can tell you it doesn't smell like any other chemical I know (acetone, white spirits, etc.).

Many thanks for the detailed feedback about the video, I think you're absolutely right on every count (and like I said before, this is the kind of detailed, constructive feedback I need!). I will try and include those things for the next vids.

As for where to buy, I buy direct from AK usually, they have free shipping from €70 onwards if I recall correctly. There's also a store here in Germany that has almost all their inventory (unlike with AMMO, which is hard to get locally).

And yes, please go ahead and include the video or the info in your guide.

Thanks again for the feedback!
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 04 Jul 20, 07:19
James wrote:Haha wow. Don't think I need to add anything to the above. Great vid and great advices from @pawl. He's already got some great how to guides on iso and acetone 😊 great to see a complete collection now.
I quite liked the shorty and snappy style with this one @Lovecraft0110 . I don't think many people would be looking for a long vid on this sort of guide so I think it's about right 😊 good job! Unless you want to get a mention in for lork the dreadnought somehow πŸ˜‚
James wrote:Haha wow. Don't think I need to add anything to the above. Great vid and great advices from @pawl. He's already got some great how to guides on iso and acetone 😊 great to see a complete collection now.
I quite liked the shorty and snappy style with this one @Lovecraft0110 . I don't think many people would be looking for a long vid on this sort of guide so I think it's about right 😊 good job! Unless you want to get a mention in for lork the dreadnought somehow πŸ˜‚
Hahahahah! No, after Pawl's post it's hard to add anything, isn't it?

Thank you, James, like I said before, I love the detailed feedback you guys are giving me. As for Lhorke, I did actually want to include him somehow, but I couldn't figure out how :smile:

Oh, speaking of which, I am having my brother in law (who did all the channel art) do an illustration of Lhorke as if I was speaking to him on the holovid (or whatever it's called). Cool, huh?
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Site Admin
 04 Jul 20, 09:31
I try! πŸ˜‚

2. Okay. That's not ideal, but I suppose I have to be realistic - not everything can be as tame as iso! And I'll need a respirator in the long run anyway, so I can't complain about having to get one!

3. I can understand why! When I next make an order I'll add some to it, purely so I can do some tests!

4. Expected, but good to know. =]

5. That is actually a big one for me - nobody wants to spend Β£20 stripping a Rhino, only to realise that they missed one of the doors, and now need to buy another bottle! Getting the most possible out of this is something I would like to look at.

6. Oh I know, but chemicals are strange and sometimes just bounce off for no apparent reason πŸ˜‚

7. Again, this one was expected. Nobody wants to spoil the magic! πŸ˜‚


Don't take it as a "you need to do all this" - @James went the exact opposite way to me and he's just as right! =]
If it gave you something to to consider for next time though then all is good. πŸ‘ and thanks for putting up with all the questions! πŸ˜‚

If I get chance later on in going to play with the guide, will link over this way. =]
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Full Member
 04 Jul 20, 14:34
Some great collaboration here guys 😁

@Lovecraft0110 alot of people on the fb groups are always asking about how to unglue miniatures and if this stripper also breaks down glue that's quite impressive? Maybe we worth looking into. The only solution I've seen to glue is freezing the miniature haha.

Ah "Lhorke" πŸ˜‚ sorry for getting the name wrong. Make sure you post a pic of the illustration when you get it 😊

Oh and wow 4 pairs of gloves 🀣 don't think I should be allowed to use this stuff then.. @pawl will attest to me going abit rogue and not sticking to guides... sounds like one you have to be careful with haha
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Site Admin
 04 Jul 20, 15:02
If it's poly cement ("plastic glue") then all you can do is cut it like you would a piece of plastic, as the two surfaces will be bonded together - they've basically both been melted a little bit.
Super glue on plastic can be weakened with ISO, and on metal it'll get eaten away by acetone. With resin this stuff is definitely the way forward!

I'm not great for it either (what's a little bit of numbness in your fingers? πŸ˜‚), but when I get hold of this stuff I'll be keeping it away from my fingers! Might try tongues or something similar to hold models, perhaps.
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Full Member
 04 Jul 20, 19:47
I prefer gorilla gel glue. I've tried the poly cement stuff and don't really like it based on very limited experience!


Haha I read that as tongue as in tongue in your mouth... 🀣🀣🀣
Element Games - Wargaming Webstore